![]() ![]() I went with a 199k BTU model that also supplies my domestic hot water. All in all I spent about $5,500 here - biggest expense being the PEX and motors.Į is where I purchased my Noritz Combi Boiler. I added a wye strainer to help filter out big particulate and full port drain valve for easy maintenance of the expansion tank. ![]() The 3 smaller pumps were $300 each and the large pump was $600. We went with the Grundfos Alpha2 pumps which are very efficient and automatically vary the pump speed to keep the flow at constant pressure. Pressure reducing valve with backflow preventer for the boiler auto fill, check valve to keep water flowing in the correct direction, mixing valve to temper the hot water going to the radiant floor zones, expansion tank, and manifold kit specific to our boiler (this created our primary loop as we had primary/secondary design). We also bought a whole lot of fittings and valves from here. We bought our thermostats and Azel 4-zone pump controller. Need oxygen barrier for closed loop systems to protect the boiler. We bought 11 300’ 1/2” coils of oxygen barrier PEX. this place was fantastic and we purchased the majority of our components here. purchased our zone distribution manifolds (where the pumps are mounted), PEX wall manifolds domestic hot water isolation valves and plumbing mechanical package (includes drain valves and hookup for expansion tank) total cost - $3,300. Almost everything I got came from 4 places: I was now at a point where I was ready to purchase my components. The pros over there really know their stuff. Once I felt comfortable with my design I posted it online and got more feedback. I also scoured for other folks who had requested feedback. I researched system designs online and started drawing out my system layout in smartdraw. For my main floor zone I did a head loss calculation and determined I needed a bigger pump due to the high GPM flow from 7 circuits and end head loss from the pex and mixing valve. I also added a zone for my top floor which uses a panel radiator in each bedroom.Įach zone is controlled by a thermostat and a pump which turns on when the thermostat calls for heat. I had one zone for my main floor, and 2 zones for my basement (so I can control them separately). To keep flow rates balanced you want a similar length run for each circuit on your zone. I then chose the spacing of my PEX in the tool and started drawing out how my pex would run in the joists. I even inputted where my joists were in my basement and mapped this out in the tool. I entered the dimensions of all my rooms as well as other factors like my climate, # and size of windows, window facing direction etc. ![]() I found a cad program called LoopCAD which I used to help me with design. They helped with the initial design of my system and component list, but i ended up varying the design a bit as I learned more and added radiators to my top floor. I started doing a lot of research and ran across a company called Radiantec. When we were searching for homes we ran across some with radiant floor heating and knew this was the most comfortable and efficient option. I gutted my basement back in September and decided now would be the best time to upgrade heating. On cold days (0 to -10f) the house would struggle to stay at 60 degrees. ![]() Our primary source of heating was 2 large gas fireplaces on the main floor and a handful of old electric baseboard heaters. It was also built in the 70s so insulation isn’t great. Our house has lots of large windows and a vaulted ceiling. My wife and I moved into our dream home in the mountains in 2021 and we quickly realized our current heating system would be inadequate. ![]()
0 Comments
Leave a Reply. |
AuthorWrite something about yourself. No need to be fancy, just an overview. ArchivesCategories |